Start With Your Head Shape

If you remember one thing from this guide, make it this: Fit comes first. A properly fitted helmet feels like a supportive hug, not a squeeze. It sits low and even, stays put when you move, and pairs cleanly with your goggles. Once we dial that in, everything else gets easy.

Measure first, then try on

1. Grab a soft tape and measure in centimeters. 
2. Place it one finger above your eyebrows, level around the widest part of your head. 
3. Write down the number. 

Brands size a little differently, so your 58 cm might be a Medium in one helmet and a Large in another. If you’re on the line between sizes, we recommend sizing down. Helmets will pack in as you use them, and a snugger fit is a safer fit. . If you do not have a soft measuring tape, , use string and a measuring tape.

Know your head shape

Most riders fall into three head-shape profiles: round, intermediate-oval, and long-oval. You’ll feel shape more than you’ll see it. It’s the trickiest part of fit—and the most important.

• Signs you need a rounder interior: pressure at the temples or sides of your head,.
• Signs you need a longer oval: pressure at the forehead, and negative space on the sides of your head.

We can help you read those pressure points in real time. Small changes in shell and liner shape solve most “this just doesn’t feel right” moments.

Pads, dials, and straps

Think of the shell as size, the pads as tailoring, and the dial as a micro-adjust.

• Start with the dial backed off, seat the helmet, then snug the dial until the helmet feels evenly secure.
• Use thicker or thinner comfort pads to fine-tune pressure. If you need the thickest  pads and the dial maxed out to get stable, the shell is too big.
• Straps should sit flat under the ears and meet under your chin without pinching. Magnetic Fidlock buckles make on-off easy with gloves.

Layers, hair, and climate

Your layering changes fit. Try the helmet with your usual neck gaiter or balaclava. If you add a thin beanie on the coldest days, test that too. For long hair, keep ponytails low so they do not lift the rear of the helmet or block the dial cradle.

DO NOT SIZE UP JUST TO ACCOMMODATE A THICK LAYER!

his is the #1 question that we get in our stores. Your beanie and the liner that is in the helmet accomplish the same thing: warmth and comfort. If you want to wear a thick layer, simply remove the liner that comes with the helmet and replace it with your layer. 

Glasses and OTG comfort

If you wear prescription glasses, bring them. Temple arms should not press under the liner or fight the goggle frame. We will try (Over the Glasses) OTG-friendly goggles and check that the strap tension and ear pad shape do not pinch.

Your perfect helmet starts with how and where you ride. Think of categories as starting points. We narrow to a construction, venting style, and feature set that fits your days on snow. If you split time between styles, we will help you pick the best all-around option or build a quiver.

All-Mountain (most riders)

What it is: Balanced weight, warmth, and venting for resort laps from groomers to trees.
What to look for:

• Hybrid or in-mold shells for lighter feel without giving up durability.
• Adjustable vents so you can open on sunny afternoons and close for the inevitable weather changes.

360 fit systems and clean goggle channels for no-gap pairing.

Skip if: You are primarily in the park or racing gates. You’ll want more specialized shells for those activities. 

Park/Freestyle

What it is: Built to take hits from rails, boxes, and frequent laps.
What to look for:

• ABS hardshells or hybrid shells with reinforced zones for repeated abuse.
• Removable ear pads and simple liner sets that dry quickly.
• Low-bulk profiles that sit stable during spins and grabs.
  Nice to have: EPP zones or engineered structures designed to better recover from smaller knocks, and ear pad pockets that accept audio.
  Fit feel: Slightly roomier crown can help with all-day comfort, but it should still pass the roll and shake tests. Many freestyle helmets are designed to remove the liner and replace with your beanie. DON’T SIZE UP!

Backcountry and Touring

What it is: Light, breathable helmets for long climbs and variable weather.
What to look for:

• In-mold or very light hybrid builds with efficient venting.
• Secure headlamp clips and goggle stow solutions.
• Pack-carry friendly shapes that do not snag.
• Optional RECCO reflectors if you want added searchability by organized rescuers. This does not replace avalanche gear or training.
  Fit feel: Close and stable without hot spots. Test with your preferred beanie or thin balaclava.

Race (league and event specific)

What it is: Discipline-specific helmets that follow race-rule requirements.
What to look for:

• Certified race models with the required labeling for your league and event.
• Chin-bar compatibility for slalom when rules call for it.
• Smooth brim shapes that work cleanly with your goggle frame at speed.
  Fit feel: Snug and stable with minimal lift when you tuck. We will check for pressure points at the temples and forehead.

Youth

What it is: True youth shells shaped for smaller crowns.
What to look for:

• Wide-range 360 fit systems for season-to-season adjustability.
• Removable, washable liners.
  Growth strategy: The helmet should fit now. Use pad swaps and the dial to follow small growth spurts. If the dial is maxed and the thinnest pads are in, it is time to size up.
• Many parents are surprised to find their children fit in adult sizes. Try Pret helmets. They’re shallow, colorful, and feature magnetic FidLock buckles that kids love.

Visor Helmets

Visor helmets are a growing and high-demand category. The integrated lens provides convenience for casual resort days or glasses wearers who want fewer pieces to manage.

Specialty Setups to Consider

• Audio compatible helmets: Ear pads with clean pockets and cable routing.
• Women’s-focused variants: Women’s helmets have fuzzier liners that provide some extra warmth but are otherwise the same in every other way! Shape, size, safety, and features are identical apart from the liner and color options.

Once fit is dialed, construction decides how the helmet feels, wears, and manages energy in a crash. There is no single best build for every rider. Think about how you use your helmet, how often you ride, and what you value most. Lighter weight. Tough exterior. Quiet, wrapped feel. We will help you balance those.

Shell constructions: how the outside is built

In-mold
A thin polycarbonate shell is fused to EPS foam. This keeps weight low and gives a sleek, close feel that many touring and all-day resort riders love. The exterior is not as abrasion tough as thicker shells, so be a little kinder to it in crowded racks. Most helmets that we carry are fully or partially in-mold construction. 

ABS hardshell
A thicker ABS outer shell is bonded to a foam liner. It is very durable against cosmetic knocks and park abuse. You will feel a touch more bulk and weight. Great for high-use riders, and freestyle laps.

Hybrid
Blends in-mold zones with ABS reinforcement where you are most likely to bump and scrape. Many all-mountain favorites live here because you get a balanced strength-to-weight mix. Hybrid shells hold up better in transit and unpredictable environments.

Inside the shell: how energy is managed

EPS foam
Expanded polystyrene is the most common liner in snow helmets. (Fun fact: it’s the main material that helmets have been using for decades! If your parents wore helmets, it’s likely they were wearing EPS foam.)  It is designed to crush and manage energy in a significant impact. After a real hit, retire the helmet even if the exterior looks fine.

EPP foam
Expanded polypropylene can rebound better from smaller knocks, because it doesn’t break on impact as easily. However - you often want your helmet to break on impact. In fact, that’s how helmets are designed to work. The newer style of EPP foam you’ll find these days is a blend of  EPP in zones and EPS in others - look for Spherical Mips when you’re shopping. Treat all foams with care. If you see cracks or the fit changes suddenly, it is time to replace.

Engineered structures
Technologies like Koroyd or WaveCel add engineered cores that deform in specific ways. They are designed to manage energy differently from solid foam alone. The right call is still the one that fits you best, carries an appropriate certification, and feels stable with your goggles.

Rotational impact systems: what they do and how they should feel

Rotational systems such as Mips add a low-friction layer or design feature that allows a small amount of slip between your head and the helmet in certain angled impacts. The goal is to reduce rotational motion transferred to the head. You should not feel the layer moving in day-to-day use. What you should feel is an even, stable cradle with no hot spots.

Which combo is right for you

• Light and agile resort rider or tourer: in-mold with a rotational system. Stable fit and low bulk.
• Park and high-use rider: ABS or hybrid shell, durable exterior, and EPP zones if available. Keep it snug so it will not creep on landings.
• All-mountain generalist: hybrid shell with a rotational system. Balanced durability and weight with a wrapped, quiet feel.
• Youth: choose the construction that fits best today. A well-shaped in-mold or hybrid with a wide-range dial is ideal. Plan a midseason fit check.

Care that preserves performance

Do not bake your helmet in a car or near a heater! When possible, store helmets in a cool, dry place. Excess heat and UV can degrade materials over time. Wash removable liners by hand with mild soap. Air dry fully before you ride. If you drop the helmet hard, inspect the shell and foam. When in doubt, bring it in. We will assess and give you a straight answer.

Common mistakes our Headucators fix

• Using the fit dial to force a too-large shell to feel secure.
• Keeping a helmet after a notable crash because it “looks fine.”
• Tossing helmets into roof boxes all summer. Heat and UV shorten lifespan.

Winter days can start at single digits and end in the 40s with sun. The springtime brings warmer temperatures, and if you’ve skied Arapahoe Basin in the Colorado summer you’ll know that sometimes skiing can be downright HOT!!! The right venting and liner package keeps you comfortable across all conditions. Think of airflow and insulation as tools you adjust to match effort and weather. Our Headucators will help you pick the system that runs at your temperature, not someone else’s.

Venting types: how air actually moves

Passive vents
Always open. Simple, light, and less expensive. Great if you run hot or ride in milder temps. Pair with a warmer liner if you want more range.

Adjustable vents
Sliders you can open and close with gloves. The sweet spot for the Rockies where mornings are cold and afternoons are bright. Look for large, glove-friendly sliders and clearly felt “open vs closed” positions.

Goggle exhaust channels
Cutouts at the brim and top that pull warm, moist air from your goggle and push it up through the helmet. This is your anti-fog ally when the pairing is right.

Front scoops vs internal channelsSome helmets scoop air at the front and route it through internal tunnels. Others rely on low-profile ports. Either can work well. We will tilt and look for a clear path from goggle vents to top exhaust.

Liner systems: what touches your head

Brushed fleece or technical knits
Soft, cozy, and common. These manage sweat well when combined with good venting.

Merino or merino blends
Temperature-regulating and naturally odor resistant. Feels great for long days. Wash gently and air dry to keep it performing.

Segmented vs wrap liners
A full wrap feels quiet and warm. Segmented panels create more airflow and can dry faster. Neither is “better.” Choose based on your climate and how hot you run.

Removable and washable
Most quality liners and ear pads pop out. Wash by hand with mild soap and air dry away from heat. Fresh liners extend the life of the helmet and your comfort.

Ear pads, audio, and hearing

Ear pad shapes
Standard pads focus on warmth. Slim or perforated pads improve hearing. Many pads accept drop-in speakers, and have removable foam discs that can assist with hearing. 

Audio pockets
Check for clean cable routing or Bluetooth-ready pockets. Keep volume low enough to hear other riders and patrol. Situational awareness is part of staying safe. With newer audio options you may be able to just install one puck to make sure you don’t lose your ability to hear other skiers.

Fit checkTemple comfort matters. If glasses or goggle straps press under the pad, we will swap pad thickness or try a different pad geometry.

Anti-fog alignment: helmet and goggle as a system

Fog is warm, moist air with nowhere to go. Your best defense is a sealed brim and a clear exhaust path.

• Match goggle exhaust ports to helmet channels.
• Avoid blocking vents with cameras, stickers, or thick beanies.
• If you regularly fog, try a different brim shape or a larger goggle frame that aligns better with your helmet.

Rockies vs coastal snow: tune for your mountain

Rockies
Cold mornings, dry air, fast sun warm-up. Choose adjustable vents and a liner that feels cozy when the sliders are closed. Merino is a great match here.

Coastal
Humid air, wetter snow, and milder temps. Favor more open venting and quicker-dry liners. Segmented liners shine on storm days when you cycle wet-to-dry.

Dialing comfort with layers

• Neck gaiters and balaclavas change fit. Bring yours to the fitting for best results.
• Face fabric choice matters. Smooth, thin knits slide under the liner without bunching.
• Wind management comes from vent control first, then layers. Do not over-tighten the dial to “seal” against wind.

Helmets and goggles are a team. The right combo gives you a quiet seal, clear airflow, and all-day comfort. The wrong combo whistles in the wind, fogs on the first pitch, and leaves a forehead gap that feels like a freezer burn. We test pairings every day, so bring your goggles when looking for a helmet and vice-versa , or let us build a matched set that fits your face and your helmet.

Start with the interface, not the logo

Same-brand pairings often line up venting and brim curves, but cross-brand can be perfect, too. What matters is the seal and the exhaust path.

Frame size and face shape

Goggles come in sizes just like helmets, but they’re often not indicated in the same way. Match frame width and nose geometry to your face and helmet brim shape. Ask a Headucator (standing by!) to make sure you get the right size for your face. 

• Small/medium frames: narrower faces, teens, and many women’s fits. Great under lower-profile brims.
• Large/XL frames: broader faces or riders who want max field of view. Make sure the tall lens doesn’t crash into the helmet brim. Good for glasses-wearers.
• Low-bridge / “Asian fit” options: extra foam at the nose and cheeks to prevent bottom-edge leaks and mid-run fogging.

Signs you need a different frame

• Red marks at the bridge after five minutes.
• Air leaks at the outer corners or along the nose.
• Lens touches the helmet brim when you tilt your head.

Airflow = anti-fog

Fog is just warm, moist air trapped behind the lens. Give it a path out.

• Stack the vents: line goggle exhaust ports with helmet intake channels.
• Open smart: crack helmet sliders on traverses and lift rides; close a click on wind-blown ridges.
• Don’t block the system: avoid mounting cameras or thick stickers over brim vents.

Facemask flubs: Above all else, make sure you leave room for air exhaust and don’t cover your nose or mouth with your facemask!

Glasses and OTG comfort

If you wear prescription glasses, bring them.

• Temple clearance: the helmet liner and ear pads should not pinch arms.
• OTG-friendly frames: Over the glasses, deeper foam cutouts prevent pressure at the temples.

Insert option: consider prescription inserts if you want a lighter, cleaner fit than OTG.

Strap, buckle, and dial harmony

• For best fit, keep the goggle strap outside the helmet. Use the rear strap clip or channel so it doesn’t ride up on the fit dial.
• Silicone-backed straps grip shells better. If your strap creeps, we’ll try a different strap texture or adjust dial height.
• If you’re going to wear your goggles under the helmet (and nothing we say will change that), bring your beanie, remove the helmet liner, and test to make sure the plastic pieces on the goggle straps don’t hurt your head when paired.

Lens shape and comfort

We won’t chase marketing terms. Cylindrical, spherical, and toric lenses can all be great. What matters for proper helmet goggle pairing is edge clearance and seal.

• Tall spherical/toric lenses: huge views; confirm they don’t contact the brim when you look up. Optically correct, but a little pricier. 
• Cylindrical lenses: lower profile; can sit cleaner under compact brims.

Rockies vs coastal tuning

• Rockies: dry cold, big temp swings. Adjustable vents plus a medium-to-tall frame that breathes when the sun pops.
• Coastal: humidity and wetter snow. Favor frames with generous top vents and a liner setup that dries fast between laps.

Once fit and pairing are dialed, features fine-tune comfort, convenience, and how the helmet behaves through a full season. We will help you pick what actually matters for your riding so you are not paying for gadgets you will not use.

Fit systems and dials

A good dial is like tailoring. It fine-tunes circumference and cradles the back of your head so the helmet stays planted.

• 360 fit systems wrap evenly to reduce hot spots and mid-run creep.
• BOA-style dials give micro clicks that are easy to feel with gloves.

Buckles and straps

You will buckle and unbuckle hundreds of times. Make it easy.

• Fidlock magnetic buckles click together with one hand, even with gloves.
• Strap geometry should sit flat under the ears and meet comfortably at the chin.
• Micro-adjusters on straps help square the buckle so it does not twist.

Liners, ear pads, and hygiene

What touches your skin is what you feel all day.

• Removable, washable liners keep things fresh. Hand wash with mild soap and air dry.
• Merino or odor-resistant knits regulate temperature and resist stink.
• Ear pad options range from plush and warm to perforated for better hearing. Many accept audio drop-ins.

Common Headucator at Craniologie: if audio feels crowded, we swap to thinner pads designed for speakers or try a shell with deeper ear recesses.

Audio compatibility

If music or coaching cues keep you in the zone, choose a helmet built for it.

• Drop-in pockets sized for common speaker kits with clean cable paths or Bluetooth modules.

Visor helmets vs brim with goggles

Two good paths. Choose the one that matches how you ride.

• Visor helmets offer integrated lenses for simplicity and easy glasses use. Less gear to juggle in the lot.
• Brim plus goggles gives the widest range of lenses and frame sizes and often the best anti-fog airflow when paired correctly.

Vent controls

Small sliders make a big difference in where there are daily temperature swings.

• Glove-friendly sliders let you tune on the lift.
• Channel design matters. We check that goggle exhaust ports line up with intake channels.

Shell accessories and mounts

Attachments can be handy. Place them thoughtfully.

• Headlamp clips are essential for early starts or night laps. Test with your actual lamp.
• Camera mounts add weight and can block vents. Mount away from intake paths. Follow brand guidance and inspect adhesive before every session.

RECCO reflectors and searchability

Some helmets include a passive RECCO reflector. It can make you searchable by professional rescuers using RECCO detectors. It does not replace avalanche gear, training, or partners. Think of it as an extra layer in a layered approach to safety.

Weight and balance

A few grams matter by hour four.

• In-mold builds feel light and close.
• Hybrids and ABS shells add exterior toughness and a slightly more planted feel.
• Balance check: nod, look uphill, then side to side. The helmet should feel secure, not top heavy.

Kids grow fast. Helmets should not. The right youth helmet fits securely today, adjusts through small growth spurts, and keeps the routine simple so they want to wear it every run. Our goal is a confident rider who forgets the helmet is even there.

Fit now, not later

• Choose a true youth shell rather than over-tightening an adult XS. Youth interiors are shaped for smaller crowns and shorter head lengths.
• The helmet should pass the roll and shake tests today with the dial near the middle of its range. If you must max the dial or add thick pads just to make it stable, the shell is off.

How we size on the floor at Craniologie

1. Measure at the brow in centimeters and pick two shell sizes that bracket the number.
2. Seat the helmet with the dial loose, then snug until contact feels even.
3. Strap check. The buckle should meet under the chin without pinch. Adjust the V-split so straps sit flat under the ears.
4. Goggle check. No forehead gap, clean seal, and no pressure at the nose. If the goggle rides high, we change brim shape or frame size.

Growth room done right

• Use comfort pad swaps and the fit dial for incremental growth.
• If the dial is near max and the thinnest pads are installed, it is time to size up.
• Do not size up “for next season.” A loose helmet can move during a fall.

Buckles and kid-friendly features

• Fidlock magnetic buckles are glove friendly and easy for small hands. We teach kids the buckle routine in the shop so they can be independent on the hill.
• Wide-range 360 dials are ideal for midseason growth and changing layers.
• Name label spot inside the liner saves time at ski school and helps lost gear find its rider.

Layers, hair, and comfort

• Test with their real balaclava or neck gaiter. Bulky beanies lift the shell and break the goggle seal.
• For long hair, place ponytails low so they do not sit under the dial cradle.
• Choose ear pad styles based on sensitivity. Plush pads are warmer; perforated pads improve hearing in lessons.

Audio and awareness

If you use audio, keep the volume low enough for kids to hear instructors and patrol. Many youth helmets accept drop-in speakers, but comfort and awareness come first. We will test pad thickness so nothing pinches at the temples.

Warmth without bulk

• Winter mornings can be brisk. Adjustable vents plus a cozy liner keep kids happy on the first chair and comfortable when the sun pops.
• If ears get cold but the crown runs hot, close front vents and leave rear vents cracked so heat can escape.

Hand-me-downs and replacements

• Hand-me-downs are fine if the helmet is snow-specific, has not taken a significant hit, is less than 3-5 years old, and still fits the new rider correctly. Replace immediately after any real impact or if the foam shows cracks or the fit changes suddenly.
• Store cool and dry between seasons. High heat in cars and roof boxes shortens lifespan.

Fit is about head shape first, not gender. From our 15+ years of fitting helmets, most women ride unisex shells perfectly. Women’s models can add liners, strap geometry, and ear pad shapes some riders find more comfortable.Whichever you prefer, always with the shell that matches your head shape, then choose the interior that feels best.

General information only: Backcountry travel involves risk. Get trained, carry proper rescue gear, and travel with experienced partners.

Touring days reward light, quiet gear that breathes on the climb and locks in on the descent. Your backcountry helmet should disappear on hour three of the skin track and feel planted when the snow turns variable. We will set you up for both.

What to prioritize

• Low weight with real stability. In-mold or light hybrid shells keep fatigue down. The right shell shape matters more than a few grams on a spec sheet.
• Efficient ventilation. Big, glove-friendly sliders and clear internal channels let heat dump on the up track and seal on windy ridges.
• Clean interface with goggles or sunglasses. Make sure the brim does not collide with tall frames and that exhaust ports have a clear path out.

Layers and fit in the wild

• Fit the helmet with the actual layers you tour in. A thin beanie or balaclava changes pressure distribution.
• Avoid thick beanies that lift the shell or break the goggle seal. Choose smooth knits that slide under liners without bunching.
• Set the dial snug for the descent, then back it off one or two clicks on long climbs.

Venting playbook

• Uphill: open front and top sliders to dump heat. Crack rear exhaust to keep air moving.
• Transition: close a click before you pull skins so you do not shock-cool and fog.
• Descent: tune for wind. Close front vents, leave a little rear exhaust to manage moisture.

Backcountry features that matter

• Headlamp clips that actually grip your lamp band. Test with your lamp in the shop.
• Goggle stow that does not block vents. Many riders park goggles on the brim for short climbs. For longer ups, use a pocket to keep lenses warm and dry.
• Pack carry. Low-snag exterior and a rear shape that sits clean in a helmet carry sling. If you strap it outside, protect vents from branches.
• Audio-aware ear pads. Choose perforated or thinner pads if you want better hearing on partner calls.

Standards, reflectors, and mountain travel

• Choose a helmet that meets snow-sport standards and fits correctly. Some models offer multi-standard designs for specific objectives. Bring your objective list and we will talk through options.
• RECCO reflectors can make you searchable by organized rescuers. They do not replace a beacon, probe, shovel, or avalanche education. Treat them as one layer in a layered safety system.

Goggle and lens strategy

• Keep a dry lens warm in a chest pocket on storm days.
• If you fog often, evaluate brim shape and frame size before you blame the lens. Alignment solves most issues.
• Let the inner lens air dry. Dab, do not rub.

Treat your helmet like the performance gear it is. A little care keeps it fresh, comfy, and ready to do its job.

Cleaning
Pop out liners and pads when possible. Hand wash with mild soap, rinse well, and air dry away from heat. Wipe the shell with a damp cloth. Avoid harsh cleaners that can damage foams and fabrics.

Storage
Cool, dry, and out of the sun. UV and heat age materials. Skip car trunks and roof boxes in warm months. A breathable bag on a closet shelf is perfect.

Drops and crashes
If you take a real hit or see cracks, dents, or crushed foam, retire it. EPS is designed to manage energy only once. If fit changes suddenly after an impact, bring it in and we will assess. Some damage isn’t visible, but Craniologie Headucators can help assess condition.

Replacement timeline
Most brands recommend replacement after several seasons of regular use due to UV, sweat, and material fatigue. If you ride a lot, check fit and liner condition each fall. Replace proactively!

Crash replacement
Many brands offer crash-replacement programs with proof of incident. Save your receipt and photos. We can help you navigate the process.

Helmets are tools, not heirlooms. If performance is uncertain, it is time to retire and refit. Here is the quick check our Headucators use:

Have you ever wondered what the certifications mean for your ski and snowboard helmets? These certifications tell you the helmet has passed specific impact, retention, and coverage tests. Understanding the labels helps you match the right helmet to your activity, especially if you race, tour into variable terrain, or travel internationally.

The most common standards you will see

ASTM F2040 - United States

The baseline for recreational skiing and snowboarding in the United States. It covers impact absorption, retention system strength, and coverage area. If a helmet is sold for snow sports in the U.S., it should carry this certification.

CE EN 1077 - Europe

The European standard for alpine skiing and snowboarding. It comes in two classes. Class A offers more coverage and is common in race environments. Class B allows for more venting and lighter builds, making it popular for recreational and freestyle helmets. Many helmets carry both CE EN 1077 and ASTM F2040, which is helpful if you travel or race internationally.

FIS RH 2013 - Racing

Required for FIS-sanctioned racing. This standard builds on CE EN 1077 Class A with additional requirements for penetration resistance and coverage. If you compete in slalom, giant slalom, super-G, or downhill under FIS rules, look for a helmet with the FIS RH 2013 conformity label. Requirements differ by discipline, so confirm your event's current equipment list before you buy.

CE EN 12492 - Mountaineering

While this certification is a mountaineering and climbing standard. Some backcountry-focused helmets carry this alongside snow certifications for riders who transition between ski touring and technical terrain. It emphasizes top and side protection for falling objects and is lighter on rear coverage than snow-specific standards.

Below is a comprehensive chart of snow helmet certifications, include certifications beyond the list above.

Dual and multi-certified helmets

Many helmets carry more than one certification. A helmet labeled with both ASTM F2040 and CE EN 1077 Class B works for resort riding in the U.S. and Europe. If you race domestically but also enter international events, look for helmets that meet both ASTM and FIS standards. Multi-certified helmets simplify travel and competition without sacrificing fit or features.

What certification does not tell you

Standards set a floor, not a ceiling. Two helmets with identical certifications can feel completely different on your head. One may run rounder, another longer. One may vent better for spring days, another may seal tighter for January storms. Certification confirms the helmet passed defined tests. Fit, comfort, and feature set are still your job to evaluate.

If you are entering racing, confirm event rules before purchase. Many leagues follow FIS specifications for specific events and require a visible conformity label that reads “Conforms to FIS RH 2013.” Requirements for SL differ from DH, SG, and GS. Always check the current season’s equipment rules. 

Helmets reduce risk but cannot eliminate it. Always ride within your ability and follow resort and backcountry safety guidance.